If you’ve spent any time exploring niche fragrances, you’ve almost certainly encountered oud. It’s one of the most talked-about, most expensive, and most divisive ingredients in modern perfumery. But what actually is it?
The Basics
Oud (also spelled oudh, and sometimes called agarwood) is a dark, aromatic resin that forms inside the heartwood of Aquilaria trees when they become infected with a specific type of mould. The tree produces the resin as a defence mechanism, and over time, the infected wood becomes dense, dark, and incredibly fragrant.
The process takes years — sometimes decades — which is part of why genuine oud is so expensive. Only a small percentage of Aquilaria trees naturally develop the infection, and wild oud-producing trees have become increasingly rare due to overharvesting. High-quality oud oil can cost more than gold per gram.
What Does Oud Smell Like?
This is where it gets interesting, because oud doesn’t smell like any one thing. Depending on the origin, quality, and how it’s been processed, oud can range from sweet and woody to animalic and almost barnyard-like. Common descriptors include smoky, leathery, warm, balsamic, and honeyed.
In modern Western perfumery, oud is typically blended and softened to make it more accessible. Brands balance the raw intensity of oud with smoother ingredients like sandalwood, vanilla, rose, or amber. The result is a rich, complex scent that’s distinctly luxurious.
Oud in Modern Fragrance
Oud has been central to Middle Eastern perfumery for centuries, but it entered the Western mainstream relatively recently. Tom Ford’s Oud Wood (2007) is often credited with introducing oud to a broader audience, and since then, virtually every major fragrance house has released at least one oud-based scent.
The trend shows no signs of slowing. In the UK market, oud-based fragrances consistently rank among the most searched and best-selling niche scents. Consumers are drawn to oud’s complexity and longevity — a well-made oud fragrance can last an entire day and evolve beautifully on the skin.
Synthetic vs Natural Oud
Given the cost and scarcity of natural oud, many fragrances use synthetic oud molecules or oud accords — blends of other ingredients designed to mimic oud’s character. This isn’t a bad thing. Modern fragrance chemistry can produce incredibly convincing and beautiful oud-inspired scents at a fraction of the cost, and without the environmental concerns associated with wild harvesting.
At Lab D.83, our Wood You Oud? fragrance uses a carefully crafted oud accord that captures the rich, smoky sophistication of oud alongside cedarwood, saffron, and sandalwood. It’s our most complex fragrance and a favourite among customers who appreciate depth and longevity. You can try it as part of our Discovery Set for just £30.